So your chlorine could be lingering around for longer, and your cell is just adding to it. You are probably right, the only thing I can do is keep adding salt until the physical salt is correct and see if the system continues to operate. If not, keep reading. Have you checked the cell for scaling? The salt level reading was ok to start with, then just lowers down to 2700 in a few days. If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter. For full financing details please visit our why is it not working properly>? 2. I have some very little amount of it, small fraction from what it suppose to be. I have also found no two T15’s are the same. Did you clean the cell? The displays read zero for my salt level (both readings, average and instint) and amp reads zero. My Hayward Aquarite unit (T-15) is producing no chlorine – I just took the salt cell to a testing place and they said it was working ‘like new’. when he disconnects the cell from the controller he doesn’t get a “NO CELL” reading. this is really really helpful. This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward. What’s it doing? The Aquarite replacement main PCB is the GLXPCBRITE. Yes, just replace the old board with the new style. Turn the pool on, the flow indicator blinks for 2 minutes or so, then goes out like normal. Pool store shows salt love is 2900. For example, I am unable to reset the cell type. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. Any ideas? Add to Cart. Hello, I have a aquarite t-cell 15, it developed a problem recently. Thank you so much in advance. If the cell is making chlorine, there should bubbles floating out the cell which is a byproduct of the cell creating chlorine. Thanks, Josh. The only thing that I could think of that would show 100 on the board is “100 P” which is referencing to the board being set at 100% production. Hey Jay this seems to be the issue on my system when i squeezed the sides they lights came on for 15-20 secs before going out again. This turbo cell is designed to use with Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite Pro and Aqua Plus salt chlorination and chemistry automation models AQR-PRO, PL-PLUS and also compatible with Hayward Goldline Aqua Trol salt chlorine generator models AQ-TROL-RJ, AQ-TROL-RJ-TL, AQ-TROL-HP, AQ-TROL-HP-TL. I’ve just replaced my T-3 cell and the current limiter on the PCB as I was having problems with the system turning on and off repeatedly. This year turned on and the Check Tcell and Check salt light solid and display was hard to read. what would cause that? ... Hayward Pumps Above Ground Power-flo LX Install Ma. I’ve cleaned the cell, recalibrated the salt levels to match the salt levels from the pool store (3200ppm) and all my chemical levels are perfect. Amps and volts are good. That means you would need a new cell. How old is the cell? Check the circuit for any faults, and for the correct voltage so you can confirm your board is set up correctly. Hello, just bought a house with salt water pool built in 2012… We have a Blue Essence chlorinator with a new t-15 cell. The current typically goes down when the cell gets old. I hope what I said above makes sense. (kind of like GROUNDHOG DAY) — what’s you thought? We just bought the house and the previous owner may have replaced with the wrong cell I guess but…seems to work ok. I’m ready to throw the whole system out. I ran diagnostics and it says my software version is 1.45. All amps and voltages are within range, but when I test for Chlorine, none there. Can you see the diagnostics menu? Noteworthy in this discussion is that, with my system experiencing this problem of declining salt levels during a filtration cycle, by sliding the power switch to off then back to auto or super chlorinate, the system seeks a new instant salt level that is close to what your pool water test says it was. I have an Aqua Rite system with a T cell 15. When I turned circuit breaker off and on again, the power and generating light came on for 5 seconds and went back out. Any help is appreciated. If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board. Thanks. > 80% I’ve got a Aqua Rite with firmware R1.40 and mine doesn’t dhow the T cell number either. > 26.5 volts Is there a way to see if the cell just stopped working? Does that mean that the cell needs replacement? Adjust salt level as needed. Thanks! Enjoy No Payments and No Interest if paid in full in 6 months on purchases of $99 or more when you checkout with PayPal and choose PayPal Credit. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? My chlorine has dropped to almost 0 so I’m assuming that means it isn’t running. Yes there is chlorine in the pool. 4) The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector. Salt level 3200 For tutoring please call 856.777.0840 I am a recently retired registered nurse who helps nursing students pass their NCLEX. I’m in Florida so the system runs all year. The Pool Factory is proud to offer FREE SHIPPING on any order over $99! Swim pure plus system with a T-9 cell. My Aquarite is LED light won’t go on and when I turn the system to AUTO it trips the breaker. Matthew, Salt system boards get out of whack all the time and test strips can also foul up, so I like to get outside confirmation of what is what. I have Hayward T-cell -5 now and I am not finding that same cell? Sometimes this sensor gets dirty and may need a little extra scrubbing besides the normal acid bath to get it clean. (4) The pool chemistry is good, salt is at 2900ppm (tested at Leslie’s), temp at 62F… After I did all water chemistry steps, and finally added 400 lbs of salt, I’ve been running the pump for about 14 hrs straight Any suggestions? Couple of things are unusual (1) the control unit is producing a lot of heat – the box is almost too hot to touch (2) the salt reading is 3700 and tested 4100. Does this value of 100 mean something? Display always reads 3400 and never turns off. I replaced the transformer, had main board repaired and replaced the indicator board. I never replaced the the salt cell and I have stored the Compupool GRC40GH salt cell in my garage for nine years. “No Flow” LED starts flashing. Hello- our system is less than a year old and works great. Is the cell producing chlorine? The CYA for a salt pool should be around 50-80, 0-30 is way too low. I have had the salinity tested it’s at 3500ppm. Desired output: 69p (while knob is at 60, close enough) I’ve checked everything I know how to check to no avail. If I push the Display button to see the settings, nothing happens. Up till this point we’ve never had a problem. CYA, PH, Alk were spot on. The power light does not come on. Most likely your current limiter. Also, when you install a new board you need to make sure the circuit voltage settings correct before applying power. Multiple tests at pool store tell me I’m at 3500. =(, The voltage indicator says it is 32.3 volts in the manual says it will not produce if over 30 volts what causes the high voltage and how do I repair it. Have you cleaned the cell since this problem has started? Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display For those of you having issues after you replace the cell with low salt readings, check cell etc. Help???? The motherboard was replaced about 2 years ago according to some receipts that the previous homeownes shared. If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. Problem description: Amperage = 0, no chlorine generation. Nevermind, … Thank You. This is the first issue we have had in 6 years . If nothing changes, should I replace the board? Check the cable connections. 4. 1500 salt As salt chlorine generators become more popular the misconception of how saltwater pools work seems to grow... Saltwater pools are becoming more and more popular. The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when: The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when: The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when: Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. I’ve made this mistake a time or two. Not to sound like a broken record but have you done any of the troubleshooting in the guide? Aquarite AQR9. The answers seem obvious but I have seen several times where after a substantial rain the current increases, which seems opposite to expectation. I replaced a t-15 with a t-9 cell on a aqua rite originally installed in 2007 (I learned the age of the unit after installing the new cell). And have you done any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide? I have an Aquarite/Goldline chlorinator and t-15 salt cell (r-1.4) for fourteen years. PN: G1-066012C-1 if your salt levels are low the cell can’t operate. I cleaned out some gunk in the cell but it is still showing 0.00. Hi there. It goes from the r1.45 to the salt reading. Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch. I’m having g the same problem. Did we ever get a resolution to this? I have run system in both + and – and runs fine but after that it will not re start. It cost like $2.50 for a new one. How do I do that? Do a back flush then a super chlorination. Then the generating LED shuts off, and it won’t register no flow or anything else unless I reset the breaker again. I have a Hayward T-15 system. Mike, I have a strange one. From the article section regarding cell amperage: I have an aqua rite system with only the green power light lit no matter where the switch is at. Got the Aqua Trol last year worked great. I have proper salt, the cell generates chlorine, BUT the “Desired output %” will not increase over 18 no matter how I spin the dial. Hayward's AquaRite Salt system is the convenient alternative to conventional chlorine - bringing your pool the very best in soft, silky water with no more red eyes, itchy skin, or harsh odors. My awful right was not producing chlorine like it should. Yes, and it looks clean with no buildup apparent from either end. i can’t test black and red across main board without 20 amp fuse that works – as of now there is almost no current across black and red on main. Hi, Hello all. Did you make sure the correct TCELL is selected in your settings? hayward above ground skimmers; hayward front access spa skimmer; hayward sp-1075 series; hayward sp-1089; hayward sp-1090, 1092; hayward sp-1091lx, 1091wm. Here is what is going on: Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO. … It reads that my salt is at 2700. 85 water temp Did you try recalibrating the salt level? Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. 20K-Gallons. I’ve never heard of that issue? Is the Aquarite still producing chlorine? Does anything show up on the display? Just installed a new pool and running my chlorinator for the first time.. we balanced the chemicals and added salt. Matthew, How does one know when the Hayward AquaRite control box for the salt generator has reached the end of it’s life? I put a dummie on and when I put the chlorinater in a bucket of water it generates on super chlorinate but not chlorinate. Affirm offers instant financing for purchases to be paid in fixed monthly installments over 18, 24, 36 & 48 months. Is it a compatibility issue with the new salt cell? Of course it is not working at all and I have had to disconnect the power as it’s power and my pool pump power share the same on/off switch. I have been looking for a cell replacement. But, you know what’s not great? i tested with multimeter and found the replacement board with jumpers for 220 ac as described as the default setting had about 240 VAC across and the next test across the yellows showed 24 – the following test across the 20 amp fuse that keeps blowing shows 22.6 – also the replacement 20 amp fused i bought have prongs that are too wide to fit on the connectors on the board – i held one up with needle nosed pliers to make connection and it quickly blew the circuit as the others had done. Is there a problem with the display board or is it something else? If in normal mode it does the same with just the power and generate leds. I see you have done all of this diagnostic work, but have you tried cleaning the cell? Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone. Anyone find a solution for this? The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow. I’ll post the problem here, just in case there are some quick suggestions about what might be wrong with my system. I going to disconnect the flow switch tomorrow and read the voltage and current outputs no closely. The Generating light comes on and remains on for 15 – 30 seconds, then goes off. If your salt system is 2010 or earlier (I think), the control panels can not be set to accept the various Turbo Cells. Turn your AquaRite on; if you unplug your cell while on and the cell temp reads 77 degrees, then it definitely the cell. There should be NO elbow after the flow switch. The system says off due to low salt levels. I have replaced the current limiter two more times on the PC board and have had no issues with the SWG system from Aquarite/Goldline, until this year when the generator stopped generating and the salinity output reading levels started to drop significantly. Readings from pool store are always at mid to high 3000’s when I take water there weekly. Add to Cart. I can’t see any of the diagnostic values. > r 1.59 Item out of Stock . Have you taken a sample of your pool water to the pool store for verification of your refults? I emailed Hayward technical support, they said “your phosphorus levels are high”, I said, no, they’re not (<100PPM), they didn't want to discuss it after that. I suggest you contact Hayward to see if they can point you in a solid direction. Have you cleaned the cell? Do I need to upgrade my software? Goldline controls There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch. I also have another client less than 3 miles away from the one above that can’t go over 3200 ppm and I have to shut the cell off and let it run 24 hrs before firing it back up and can only put 40 lbs in at a time. I installed the cell new last fall. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. We do not, Hayward doesn’t list a part number for it. You need to replace the main PCB which is the GLX-PCB-RITE for the AquaRite. Could that be the problem? Any advice? The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating. Most relevant matches are shown. If I move the switch to off then back on it displays a salt reading (2700) and the generating light is on. The salt reading is 900 and Instant salinity reads -3300. Any idea what is going on? I have replaced the cell with a GLX-CELL3-W ( we have an ~16000 gal. Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. After the PCB replacement, the power & generating lights still do not turn on. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. I’ve been adding powder chlorine, that too disappears in a day or two. Could this be because our firmware is version r1.10? If so, that part is a few dollars at most hardware stores; I would rather buy a new current limiter than risk gluing one back together. Could this possibly be an older Mineral Springs system? I’ve been fighting with my Hayward salt system all year. The check salt light is on, it’s not generating and the salt reads around 700, also the correct salt cell is selected (t-15). Thank you for the quick response. If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm. We replaced the thermister. I can recalibrate the average to be correct but the instantaneous reading stays low. Thanks! Before I go tell you to replace that too, you should probably call Hayward for some troubleshooting. Salt chlorine generators are great products. I’ve tested several times and the chlorine is dark yellow in the test tube. The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. The problem I’m having is my super chlorinate works fine when I test it but when I test it on just chlorinate at 60% I get nothing. Any ideas as to what is causing this problem? Also leds are lit for high salt, no flow, inspect cell. is there any cell compatible with my cell? I even bought an entire new circuit board and this made no difference. The PCB is the issue. Is the generating light always suppose to be on? Checked amps and to make sure it was programmed to the correct cell. here are the readings I have: Or, email us at agparts@inyopools.com, My aqua rite unit will turn on the power, generating and superchlorinate LEDs (in that mode) then after maybe 30 seconds I hear relays click and all the LEDs turn off. Step 3: Is your cell clean? It’s remarkably convenient, too, automatically delivering chlorine for the ultimate swimming experience. If the cell isn’t on, then the generating light will not be lit. I just replaced both the board and display board on my system and the lights on the right side do not stay lit, It starts as no flow. The cell would stay on even while it is not generated, but the “Generating” light wouldn’t be lit. It tells a lot about the health of the system. Cell size t-15. My salt level is low (2000) and the check cell and salt level light is on which I’m assuming is normal because the salt is low. Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. I’ve already tried re calibrating the salt cell but it still is reading high. Still no lights at all, although I can hear the transformer’s quiet normal hum now. Could this mean that my cell is bad? Now I cannot get any power to the salt system. For example, the Aquarite will only generate chlorine half the time the pump is running when the salt system is set on 50%. I was able to spray CRC QD Electric Cleaner between the two pieces and press the two pieces back together.

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